| SEEDLINGS & TRANSPLANTS | |||
|
Wahmhoff Farms Nursery offers 16 varieties of properly graded quality conifer Seedlings and Transplants. We began our seedling nursery in the late 1980's with the help of long-time nurseryman, Norbert Noecker, because we were often disappointed with the quality of stock received from other nurseries. We have made it our goal to ship high quality seedlings, which are graded to our exacting standards. This commitment to quality has enabled our nursery to continue to grow even as other nurseries have downsized. |
Click to enlarge pictures. | |||
|
|
|
|
Seedlings and Transplants offered: | |||
| Scotch Pine | Austrian Pine | Red Pine | Eastern White Pine |
| White Spruce | Black Hills Spruce | Norway Spruce | Colorado Spruce |
| Serbian Spruce | Douglas Fir | Fraser Fir | Canaan Fir |
| Balsam Fir | Bracted Balsam Fir | Concolor Fir | Korean Fir |
Click tree name for detailed description |
|||
CLICK HERE TO VIEW ONLINE PRICING
Click HERE to view the different evergreen trees that we offer!
PLANTING DIRECTIONS:
How to Plant Conifer Seedlings and Transplants
The most important thing in planting conifer seedlings and transplants is to have the
roots going straight down into the ground without being curled up in the bottom of the
hole. The ground also needs to be tightly packed around the roots to keep the air from
drying them out. This can be accomplished in many different ways.
If planting small seedlings, and the quantity is not too great, you can use a shovel or a
planting bar to make the hole. Again, the important thing is to have the roots going
straight down and not curled up in the bottom of the hole. It is fine to cut the roots off
to the depth of the hole to prevent them from curling up in the bottom of the hole. The
roots will regrow rapidly after planting. We commonly trim the roots to 9 or 10 inches
to prevent “J-rooting”. If the roots are “J-rooted”, the tree will be stunted. To this end,
it is helpful to push the tree down in the hole beyond the planting depth, and then pull
it back up to the proper depth, causing the roots to go straight down in the hole.
When using a planting bar, you can then plunge the planting bar in the ground a
couple more times, 3 inches and 6 inches away from the original hole to help loosen
the soil and make it easier to pack it around the seedling. It is important to pack the
soil tightly, while holding the seedling in a straight position.
If planting larger seedlings or transplants, it is desirable to use an auger to make the
planting hole. We typically use a 6” auger, although even an 8” auger would work
quite nicely. These can often be rented locally, or can be purchased from our “Grower
Supply” catalog. The advantage of the auger should be obvious: it creates a larger
hole to help get the roots going straight down in the soil. After making the hole, the
tree can be inserted in the hole and the soil pushed back into the hole, helping to take
the roots straight down into the hole. (NOTE: It is still important to trim the roots to the
planting depth to prevent “J-rooting”.) We then use a planting bar to loosen the
surrounding soil and help to pack it tightly, same as above, while holding the seedling
in a straight position.
Additional questions? Call us: Wahmhoff Farms Nursery 1-888-MI-TREES
For more
information or a price list, call us toll-free or send us an email.
1-888-MI-TREES (648-7337);
.